There is something wonderfully satisfying about arriving in Panama through Enrique Malek International Airport rather than flying straight into Panama City.
Instead of stepping into a huge international hub surrounded by traffic and skyscrapers, you land in David, in the province of Chiriquí, where the landscape quickly begins to change. Mountains rise in the distance, coffee country begins to the north, the Pacific coast stretches away to the south, and some of Panama's most interesting adventures are suddenly within reach.
Enrique Malek International Airport, with the airport code DAV, is the principal airport serving David and the wider Chiriquí region. It sits just south of David and has a 2,600 metre runway capable of handling substantially larger aircraft than its relatively modest terminal might suggest.
And there is much more history behind this little airport than you might expect.
An airport born from war
Enrique Malek wasn't originally built as a peaceful gateway for tourists heading toward Boquete.
Its story goes back to World War II.
The airfield was developed during the early 1940s through an agreement between Panama and the United States connected to the defense of the Panama Canal. During the war it was known as David Field or San José Field and was used by U.S. Army Air Forces units involved in training and reconnaissance operations over the region.
Imagine that for a moment.
The same runway that today receives travelers carrying backpacks and surfboards once formed part of the military infrastructure protecting the Panama Canal during one of the most dangerous periods in modern history.
After the war, the airport returned to Panamanian control and developed into a civil and military aviation facility.
Its name honors Enrique Malek, an important figure in Panamanian aviation and founder of Aerovías Nacionales. He is remembered alongside Marcos A. Gelabert as one of the pioneers of civil and commercial aviation in Panama.
The airport that quietly became important
For years, Enrique Malek was essentially a regional airport.
Then Chiriquí began changing.
Tourism expanded. Boquete became increasingly popular with international visitors. The highlands attracted hikers, birdwatchers and coffee lovers. The Pacific coast developed its own tourism industry, while David grew into an important commercial center.
Suddenly, having a proper airport in western Panama became much more important.
The runway was eventually extended from approximately 2,100 metres to 2,600 metres, while the terminal and other airport infrastructure were upgraded. The modern facility was designed around the requirements of larger aircraft, including the Boeing 757-200.
Today the airport is operated by Tocumen S.A., the state owned company responsible for Panama's principal airport network.
The airport for exploring Chiriquí
This is where Enrique Malek becomes particularly interesting for travelers.
David itself isn't necessarily the ultimate destination for every visitor. It is often the launching point.
From the airport, you can head toward the mountains and find yourself in Boquete, surrounded by coffee farms, waterfalls and cool highland air.
Continue farther into the mountains and you reach Volcán and the agricultural highlands around the Barú region.
Head south and the landscape changes completely, taking you toward Panama's Pacific beaches and fishing communities.
Head west and you eventually reach the border with Costa Rica.
And then there are the less obvious destinations.
The cloud forests.
Remote mountain villages.
Rivers.
Waterfalls.
Wildlife reserves.
Coffee plantations.
Small beaches.
Islands.
And the extraordinary landscapes around the Fortuna area.
This makes David airport particularly useful for travelers who want to explore western Panama rather than simply visit Panama City.
It is surprisingly busy
The airport may feel small compared with Tocumen, but its passenger numbers tell another story.
Official Panama logistics information records 259,320 passengers passing through Enrique Malek in 2023, including domestic and international traffic.
Earlier growth was even more dramatic. ICAO reported that passenger traffic at Enrique Malek more than doubled between 2014 and 2016, reaching more than 323,000 passengers in 2016.
That growth reflects something larger than aviation.
It reflects the transformation of Chiriquí itself.
Small airport, big advantage
One of the great advantages of DAV is simply that it is small.
Travelers accustomed to enormous international airports may find the experience almost amusingly simple.
You aren't wandering through miles of terminals looking for your gate.
You don't necessarily need half an hour just to figure out which direction you're supposed to walk.
The airport's relatively compact nature can make arriving in David considerably less stressful than arriving at a giant international hub.
And once you have your luggage, you're already in Chiriquí.
There are rental car facilities at the airport, making it possible to pick up a vehicle and immediately begin exploring the region. Economy Rent a Car David and Hertz Car Rental - Enrique Malek Airport are among the rental options located at the airport.
There is even a Kotowa Coffee House at the airport, which feels particularly appropriate when your destination is one of Panama's great coffee growing regions.
Flying through Panama City
For many international travelers, Enrique Malek is reached through Panama City.
That might sound inconvenient, but it can actually make DAV a very useful part of a Panama itinerary.
You can fly into Tocumen, connect onward to David and effectively skip the long overland journey across the country.
Current scheduled route information shows Copa operating between David and Panama City, while Air Panama also serves the David market.
The result is that Chiriquí is much more accessible than its position on the far western side of Panama might suggest.
The backpacker's airport
There is another reason DAV is interesting.
For backpackers, David is one of those places where transportation options suddenly multiply.
You can rent a car.
You can take taxis.
You can arrange private transportation.
You can use local buses.
And you can connect onward toward Boquete and other destinations.
For travelers continuing toward Bocas del Toro, the airport can also be the beginning of an overland adventure rather than the end of the journey.
This is one of the reasons David works so well as a transportation hub.
You don't necessarily come here because you want to spend your entire vacation in David.
You come here because so much of western Panama is suddenly accessible from here.
And then there is the history
Perhaps the most fascinating thing about Enrique Malek Airport is how many chapters of Panamanian history are contained within its boundaries.
World War II.
The defense of the Panama Canal.
The development of Panamanian civil aviation.
The growth of regional airlines.
The expansion of David.
The development of tourism in Chiriquí.
Modern international aviation.
It has witnessed an extraordinary transformation from military airfield to regional gateway.
At one point during the country's turbulent political history, the airport even played a role in the return of Omar Torrijos to Panama in 1969. Historical accounts describe an improvised nighttime landing in which vehicle headlights and fires were used because the runway did not yet have conventional electric lighting.
That is quite a story for an airport that today can seem so ordinary.
The real magic happens after you leave
Perhaps that's the best way to understand Enrique Malek.
It isn't one of those airports that tries to impress you with gigantic architecture, luxury shopping or dozens of restaurants.
Its appeal is almost the opposite.
Get off the plane. Collect your bag. Walk outside. Start exploring.
Within a relatively short journey, the scenery begins changing dramatically.
David's tropical lowlands give way to mountains.
The mountains become cloud forest.
The roads lead toward coffee plantations, waterfalls and hiking trails.
And eventually you realize that the airport wasn't really your destination at all.
It was your doorway.
For travelers interested in the real Panama beyond the capital, Enrique Malek may be one of the country's most useful airports precisely because of what lies on the other side of its doors.
You don't fly to David simply to arrive in David. You fly to David to discover Chiriquí.