If you are looking for a hike in El Valle de Antón that gives you the feeling of getting properly up into the mountains without requiring a full day expedition, Cerro Cariguana, also commonly called Cerro Cara Iguana, is one of the most interesting options. The mountain forms part of the volcanic crater surrounding El Valle and offers spectacular views across the town, the surrounding mountains and, on clear days, toward the Pacific. Local tourism information describes it as one of the more dramatic viewpoints along the Ruta de la Caldera.
The name is usually translated as “Iguana Face Hill.” Apparently the shape of the mountain is supposed to resemble the face of an iguana. Whether you can actually see the iguana is another question. Some people see it immediately. Others stare at the mountain for five minutes and conclude that everyone else is hallucinating. Either way, the name has stuck.
What makes Cariguana particularly interesting is that the mountain gives you a completely different perspective of El Valle than some of the area's better known hikes. From the higher sections, you can look across the enormous volcanic crater and see how the town is surrounded by mountains on virtually every side. El Valle isn't simply a mountain town. It is a town sitting inside the crater of an ancient volcano, and hikes like Cariguana make that geography much easier to appreciate.
A hike with several different personalities
One of the unusual things about Cerro Cariguana is that there isn't just one universally agreed version of the hike. Different trail descriptions give different distances depending on where you start and whether you complete the longer loop. A shorter out and back to the viewpoint can be roughly a few kilometres, while longer loop versions are around 8 to 9 kilometres. Local tourism information lists a 6.3 kilometre route taking approximately 3.5 to 4.5 hours, while other hiking routes describe an approximately 8.7 kilometre loop.
That means you can approach Cariguana as a relatively short mountain excursion or turn it into a much more substantial hike around the crater.
The shorter option is particularly useful for travellers who want the view without committing to several hours of rugged hiking. You can get farther up toward the mountain by road and then continue on foot. The walking section takes you through forest before opening onto higher ground and the viewpoint. Other hikers start much closer to El Valle itself and make the entire approach on foot.
The longer loop is a different proposition. It becomes a proper half day in the mountains, with steep sections, uneven ground and sections where the trail feels considerably more wild than the easy tourist walks around town. One route description records approximately 570 metres of elevation gain over an 8.7 kilometre loop.
So don't make the mistake of looking at a short distance on a map and assuming Cariguana is automatically an easy walk.
The views are the real prize
The big attraction is what happens when the forest starts giving way to open terrain.
Suddenly you can see the crater below you.
El Valle spreads across the green floor of the ancient volcanic caldera, with roads, houses, farms and patches of forest appearing surprisingly small from above. The surrounding mountains rise around the valley in every direction, creating the feeling that you are standing inside a gigantic natural amphitheatre.
On a clear day, the views can stretch toward the Pacific Ocean. Panama's tropical atmosphere can sometimes make distant landscapes hazy, but when conditions are right, the combination of blue sky, green mountains and the enormous crater is spectacular. Panama's official tourism site specifically highlights the views toward both the town and the Pacific from Caraiguana.
And then there are the clouds.
El Valle's weather can change quickly. One minute you can have brilliant sunshine and the next the mountains are disappearing into mist. Rather than ruining the experience, this can make Cariguana even more atmospheric. The forest becomes darker and greener, clouds move across the ridges and suddenly you understand why this part of Panama feels so different from the tropical lowlands.
It is more rugged than India Dormida
If you've already climbed La India Dormida, Cariguana makes an excellent comparison.
India Dormida is probably the more famous hike because of the distinctive sleeping woman silhouette and the folklore surrounding it. Cariguana is less about a single famous landmark and more about the mountain experience itself.
The longer Cariguana routes are described as moderately difficult, with steep sections, uneven terrain and slippery ground possible after rain. There are also sections close to unprotected drops, so this isn't somewhere to wander around the edge while concentrating on your phone camera.
During the dry season, strong winds can occur around the exposed summit and ridges. During the rainy season, mud and slippery surfaces become more important considerations, and streams can rise after heavy rain. Lightning is also a possibility around exposed high sections.
In other words, Cariguana is a real mountain hike, even though you're never particularly far from civilization.
The forest is part of the attraction
The views get most of the attention, but don't rush through the forest sections.
The vegetation changes as you climb, and there are patches where the trail becomes enclosed by greenery before opening dramatically again. This mixture of forest and open mountain makes the hike much more interesting than simply walking up a road to a viewpoint.
Keep your eyes open for birds and insects. El Valle is surrounded by habitat that supports an impressive variety of tropical wildlife, and early morning is generally a much better time for seeing birds than arriving in the middle of the day.
You may also discover that tropical hiking is surprisingly noisy. Cicadas, birds, wind and insects can create a constant soundtrack. Then you'll reach an exposed section where the only sound is the wind moving across the ridge.
It is one of those moments when you realize you're not really in town anymore.
Sunset can be spectacular
Cariguana is also promoted locally as a good place for sunrise or sunset because of its elevated position and wide views.
There is an obvious temptation to hike up for sunset, sit down with a snack and watch the light disappear over the mountains.
Just remember that a mountain trail that seems straightforward in daylight can become a very different proposition after dark. If you're doing a longer route, give yourself plenty of time to get back down. Headlamps are much more useful than your phone's flashlight, and weather conditions can change quickly.
For a casual visitor, morning is probably the safer bet. For experienced hikers who understand the route and have the appropriate equipment, sunset can be memorable.
One reason Cariguana is interesting for backpackers is that it doesn't necessarily feel like a major tourist attraction.
You aren't visiting a giant monument or standing in front of a famous building. You're walking up a mountain above a small town in the crater of a volcano.
And that's precisely the appeal.
El Valle can sometimes be treated as a quick stop on a Panama itinerary: visit the market, see a waterfall, take a photograph at India Dormida and move on.
But spend a little longer and the character of the place changes. There are mountains in every direction, trails crossing the crater rim, waterfalls hidden in forest, unusual rock formations, farms, gardens and small communities spread throughout the valley.
Cerro Cariguana is one of the hikes that makes you appreciate the scale of the landscape.
It also gives you a chance to look back at El Valle from above rather than simply experiencing it from street level.
A few practical tips
Wear proper shoes. This isn't the place for flip flops, particularly after rain. Bring water, especially if you're doing the longer loop, and take some food if you're planning several hours on the trail.
Don't assume that the weather will stay the same because the morning started sunny. El Valle's mountains create their own weather patterns, and rain can make the trail considerably more slippery.
If you're unfamiliar with the longer route, having an offline map is sensible. Different route descriptions show different trail lengths and starting points, and the longer loop has sections where navigation is more complicated than simply following a single obvious path.
And don't forget to look behind you.
That may sound obvious, but hikers have a habit of staring at the trail while climbing. On Cariguana, some of the best scenery is what appears when you stop, turn around and look back across the crater.
Cerro Cariguana is not necessarily the easiest hike in El Valle, and that's part of why it is worth doing. It gives you forest, steep climbs, open ridges, enormous views and a genuine sense of being in the mountains. You can make it a relatively short excursion to the viewpoint or turn it into a longer half day adventure around the crater.
If La India Dormida is the famous face of El Valle, Cariguana is one of the places where you really start to understand the body of mountains surrounding it.
And somewhere up there, depending on your imagination, an iguana is apparently looking back at you.