Backpackers travelling through Panama’s Chiriqui province are typically headed off to the beautiful highlands of Boquete, the Carribean islands of Bocas del Toro, the luscious hiking trails of El Valle de Anton, or the beaches of Santa Catalina. And while all of these destinations are well worth a visit, Chiriqui has some hidden gems that are often overlooked, one of which is the Pacific beach town of Las Lajas. During my travels through Panama, I decided to take a day trip to Las Lajas on a whim, and wound up stumbling upon a shoreline which I could only describe as breathtaking. The area around Playa Las Lajas is relatively undeveloped, which adds a great deal of charm to this location in my opinion. It’s as if you’ve walked into a hidden paradise that’s all your own, and you’ve been let in on a secret that the other backpackers making their way through Panama never got to learn. This beach is one of the most beautiful that I have visited in Panama and in Central America in general, it is easily accessible, and there are plenty of things to do apart from simply taking in the gorgeous view and playing in the waves. I began to wonder why it is that the majority of backpackers pass up on Las Lajas as a stop in their itinerary. Here’s everything you need to know about Chiriqui’s secret beach:
Where is it?
Playa Las Lajas sits on Panama’s Pacific coast in the southern region of Chiriqui province. Chiriqui is commonly known throughout Panama as a rancher’s province due to the fact that a large portion of its land is agricultural and a vast majority of its inhabitants are involved in agriculture or livestock farming, whether it be for subsistence use or commercial. However, Chiriqui contains some of Panama’s most popular tourist destinations: the Boquete highlands, where visitors can try the world famous Geisha coffee and hike up Panama’s largest volcano, and Panama’s second largest city, David. Chiriqui province is not typically valued for its beaches; however, there are some beautiful shorelines on Chiriqui’s southern border such as Playa Las Lajas and Boca Chica.
How do I get there?
The best way to get to Las Lajas is to take a bus or a taxi from David. There is a direct bus to San Felix that departs from the central bus station in David every 30 minutes from 6:30 to 18:30. The bus takes around 90 minutes (depending on how many different stops the driver makes to drop off the locals) and will cost you $5. The bus will leave you at the bus stop in San Felix, which is on the Pan-American highway, and from there you can catch a taxi to Playa Las Lajas, which takes an additional 10 or so minutes. There is a supermarket across the street from the bus stop in San Felix where there are always taxis during the day. If catching the bus sounds like too much of a hassle, the other option is to catch a taxi from David, which you can also find at the central bus station. Taking a taxi will typically cost you somewhere around $20 but will get you there in a little over 60 minutes since you do not have to worry about catching a cab in San Felix. If you have rented a car and plan on driving from David to Las Lajas, just follow the Pan-American Highway toward Panama City until you reach San Felix and take a right at the large sign with the palm trees that says “Las Lajas”. Then, just keep following this road until you reach the beach. In fact, you can actually drive your car right up to the beach and park it underneath the canopies for a small price.
Why should I go?
With over 2,800 kilometers of coastline, Panama has quite a bit to offer in the way of beaches. But if you are looking for a beautiful beach without the hordes of tourists, then Playa Las Lajas is the place for you. From the beach you can see the islands Ensenada and Isla Silva de Afuera just off the coast beyond the rolling waves. And the coastline of Playa Las Lajas is so long and so straight that the sand and palm trees that border the beach seem to stretch infinitely in either direction. And the best part? There’s usually almost no one there! No competing for space to set up your towel, nobody blasting loud music and disturbing your peace, no vendors trying to sell you cheaply-made bracelets at outrageous prices, just you and the sound of waves crashing and palms swaying in the wind. Though there is typically a bit of trash lying around close to the road, the awesome natural beauty of Playa Las Lajas will draw your attention and leave you breathless. It’s easy to lose track of time as you soak up the sun and splash in the waves of your own secret beach.
What should I do there?
Though a large part of the appeal of Playa Las Lajas is the lack of tranquility and lack of tourism, there is still a range of activities to do there apart from admiring the scenery:
Surfing around Isla Silva de Afuera is great, especially if you like having the waves all to yourself. For $60, the owner of the island will come and pick you up from Playa Las Lajas and will take you surfing for the day. Just ask around for Isla Silva de Afuera Surf Hostal & Cabana or find it online..
There are plenty of casual dining options around Playa Las Lajas. Brisas Del Pacífico and Restaurante Refugio Tropical both offer a selection of Western menu options as well as tropical Panamanian dishes, including some of the freshest fish you can find. Margaritas Cabañas Restaurante offers delicious Latin food and, of course, delicious margaritas you can enjoy while taking in the beautiful view of the ocean.
Right next to the Las Lajas Beach Resort is Beach Massage Panama, where you can get a soothing massage in the Lomi Lomi Nui or Shiatsu style while enjoying the ocean breeze.
Or, if you want to do something a bit more active and adventurous, stop by Las Lajas Beach Divers and go scuba diving for a day with beginner-friendly instructors and have a chance to see manta rays, tortoises, and eels close up.
Las Lajas is off the beaten path, but there are still plenty of activities to keep you entertained. It is important to remember that Las Lajas is not a town that is frequented by tourists, and so many of the businesses in the area do not have listings on Google. Get out and talk to people, ask them what to do and where to go. Whether it’s Las Lajas or any other destination, that’s the best way to maximize your experience.
Where should I stay?
Playa Las Lajas is great for a day trip to break up a long drive along the Pan-American Highway, but there’s nothing like waking up to the smell of the ocean and the sound of waves crashing. If you want to spend the night in Las Lajas, here’s where you should stay:
If you’re looking for cheap accommodation and a fun, social environment, Johnny Fiestas is a cool hostel right on the beach with beds starting at just $10. Whether you’re hanging out at the bar and singing karaoke with the other guests or soaking up the sun in a hammock, it’s easy to have a good time at Johnny Fiestas.
If you’re willing to shell out a little bit more money for somewhere more upscale, Las Lajas Beach Resort offers great views of the beach which you can enjoy from their restaurant, bar, or while sitting in their outdoor pool. Rooms at Las Lajas Beach Resort start at $70.
Show Pony Beach Resort and Suites is about 10 minutes from the ocean, but that doesn’t mean you can’t get in the water. They have a beautiful outdoor pool that is surrounded by cabanas, a poolside bar, and a water fountain. Rooms start at $50.
If you want to stay overnight on Isla Silva de Afuera after a day of surfing or snorkeling, Isla Silva de Afuera Surf Hostal & Cabana charges $15 per night and sits right on a white sand beach that is great for surfing, snorkeling, or just lounging out in the sun.
In addition to their delicious food, Brisas Del Pacífico also offers accommodation starting at $65 which includes free breakfast.
The more popular destinations in Panama such as Bocas del Toro or Boquete are certainly well worth going to; however, if you’re looking for a unique beach destination, add Playa Las Lajas to your travel itinerary.
Want to learn more about Las Lajas? Check out this article: