Panama is an extraordinary country for people who like getting outside. Within a relatively small area you can move from Caribbean beaches to tropical lowlands, from dry Pacific forests to cool cloud forest, and from busy cities to places where the forest seems to stretch in every direction. For travellers, that variety is one of Panama's greatest attractions. It also means that anyone who spends serious time hiking, camping, exploring waterfalls or wandering through remote jungle should understand one important part of the environment: Panama has a substantial variety of snakes, including several species with medically important venom.
That fact sometimes gets presented in one of two completely opposite ways. One version makes the Panamanian jungle sound like a snake-filled death trap where every bush contains a deadly reptile. The other pretends snakes are almost irrelevant. Neither is particularly useful. The reality is much more interesting. Most snakes you encounter will want nothing to do with you, snakebites are not something that most travellers experience, and sensible behaviour dramatically reduces the risk. At the same time, Panama genuinely has venomous snakes capable of causing severe injury or death, and travellers exploring remote areas should know how to behave around them.
The most important thing to understand is that snakes are part of the jungle rather than an enemy waiting for tourists. They aren't hunting humans. They don't normally chase people down trails. They don't see a backpacker and decide that attacking them would be a good afternoon activity. A snake is generally interested in finding food, avoiding predators and surviving long enough to reproduce. A human walking past is usually something it would prefer to ignore.
The problem happens when a human and a snake accidentally get too close to each other.
That can happen remarkably easily in tropical vegetation. A snake may be resting quietly beside a trail and be almost invisible because its pattern blends into leaves, branches and shadows. Someone steps too close, reaches down without looking, grabs a branch, sits on a log or walks through thick vegetation, and suddenly the snake feels threatened. The resulting bite isn't necessarily the result of an aggressive animal. It can simply be an unfortunate misunderstanding between two animals that would both rather be somewhere else.
The Fer de Lance
The snake travellers should take particularly seriously is the fer de lance, Bothrops asper. In Panama it is also commonly called the equis, referring to the X shaped markings that can occur along its body. It is a pit viper and one of the country's most medically important snakes. The Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute identifies Bothrops asper among Panama's venomous snakes, while the World Health Organization identifies this species as an important cause of snakebite envenoming in Central America.
The fer de lance is a remarkably effective ambush predator. Its colouring can make it extraordinarily difficult to notice when it is motionless on the forest floor. Depending on the individual and habitat, it can appear brown, gray, olive or tan with darker markings. It isn't necessarily the gigantic monster people imagine when they hear the word "viper." That can actually make it more concerning for inexperienced visitors because its camouflage can be excellent.
Fer de lance are found in a variety of habitats, including forest, agricultural areas and disturbed environments. They can occur surprisingly close to human activity. This is an important lesson for travellers: venomous snakes aren't restricted to pristine rainforest hundreds of kilometres from civilization. You can encounter wildlife around farms, rural roads, forest edges and other places where suitable habitat remains.
They are primarily nocturnal or active during cooler periods, although activity patterns vary. A person walking around after dark therefore needs to be particularly careful about where they put their feet and hands.
The good news is that avoiding one is usually quite straightforward.
Don't step over something you haven't inspected.
Don't reach into holes.
Don't grab vegetation blindly.
Don't walk barefoot through jungle vegetation.
And if you see a snake, don't try to find out how close you can get before it becomes uncomfortable.
Eyelash Vipers
Another spectacular group of Panamanian pit vipers is the eyelash palm pit viper, Bothriechis schlegelii. These snakes are famous for their extraordinary appearance. They can occur in several colour forms, including yellow, green and patterned individuals, and they have small projections above the eyes that give them their distinctive "eyelashes."
They are relatively small compared with some of Panama's larger vipers, but their size should not be interpreted as meaning harmless. They are venomous pit vipers and should be treated accordingly.
Eyelash vipers are strongly associated with vegetation and can be found above ground, which creates a different kind of risk from the large terrestrial vipers. A traveller staring at the ground may be watching carefully for snakes while completely forgetting that a snake could be sitting on a branch above them.
This is one reason experienced jungle travellers develop the habit of looking around rather than simply looking down.
The forest has multiple levels.
There is wildlife on the ground, wildlife in the bushes and wildlife overhead.
Bushmasters
Panama is also home to bushmasters in the genus Lachesis, among the largest venomous snakes in the Americas. The bushmaster is an extraordinary animal and one of the snakes that has acquired almost legendary status among people interested in tropical wildlife.
Unlike the highly adaptable fer de lance, bushmasters are generally associated with more intact forest habitats and are elusive. Encounters are uncommon, which is probably good for everyone involved. They are large, heavily built pit vipers and possess potent venom.
Their rarity for ordinary travellers is worth emphasizing. Knowing that bushmasters exist in Panama does not mean that every jungle hike is likely to end with one crossing the trail. Quite the opposite. Most visitors will never see one.
But this is precisely why trying to handle an unfamiliar snake is such a bad idea.
You don't need to know whether the snake in front of you is a bushmaster, fer de lance, eyelash viper or something completely harmless.
You simply need to know that it is a snake and that you should give it space.
Coral Snakes
Then there are the coral snakes, which belong to the genus Micrurus. These are among Panama's most visually distinctive snakes. Their contrasting bands of red, yellow and black make them look almost as though someone painted them specifically to advertise that they should not be touched.
Coral snakes possess neurotoxic venom that can interfere with the nervous system. Serious envenoming can cause muscle weakness and paralysis, including paralysis affecting the muscles needed for breathing.
Fortunately, coral snakebites are relatively uncommon compared with bites from some pit vipers. Coral snakes tend to be secretive and spend much of their time away from obvious human activity.
The important traveller lesson is not to get caught up in trying to memorize colour patterns.
There are countless internet rules about identifying coral snakes from their bands. Those rules can become dangerously unreliable when you're dealing with an unfamiliar species, poor lighting, a frightened animal or somebody who has only spent ten minutes looking at pictures online.
The safest identification system is much simpler.
Don't touch the snake.
Turtleshell and Cat Eyed Snakes
Panama also contains a variety of snakes that are venomous or rear fanged but are not generally considered comparable in medical importance to species such as fer de lance, coral snakes or bushmasters. Among these are several cat eyed snakes and other colubrid species.
This is where things become fascinating for anyone interested in reptiles.
The word "venomous" doesn't automatically mean "capable of killing a person." Snake venom exists on a spectrum, and different snakes have evolved different venom systems for different prey. Some species have venom that is primarily adapted to small prey and poses little danger to humans, while others possess venom capable of producing severe systemic effects.
For the average traveller, however, trying to classify every Panamanian snake according to its medical significance isn't particularly useful.
A harmless snake should still be left alone.
A mildly venomous snake should definitely be left alone.
A highly venomous snake should be left alone even more enthusiastically.
The Snakes You Are Most Likely To Notice
Panama also has many completely harmless snakes, and these often make up the majority of the snakes travellers actually see.
There are racers, vine snakes, boas, boas of various types, water snakes and numerous other species. Some are beautifully patterned. Others are almost completely plain. Some spend much of their time on the ground while others live in trees.
The presence of harmless snakes is actually one of the more enjoyable aspects of exploring Panama. Once you stop thinking of every snake as a potential killer, you can start appreciating just how diverse they are.
A snake crossing a trail isn't automatically an emergency.
Quite often, it is simply a snake going somewhere.
Let it go somewhere.
Boa Constrictors Are Not Venomous
One particularly important distinction for travellers is the difference between venomous and constricting snakes.
Panama has boas, including the common boa, and these are impressive animals. They are powerful predators that kill prey by constriction rather than injecting venom.
That doesn't mean you should grab one.
A large wild boa is an incredibly strong animal with sharp teeth, and an encounter with one should be treated with respect. But it isn't the same medical situation as being bitten by a fer de lance.
This distinction is useful because travellers sometimes assume that any large snake must be venomous.
It isn't.
Some of Panama's largest snakes are not venomous at all.
And some of its medically important snakes aren't particularly large.
Why Snakes Are Harder To See Than You Think
One of the biggest problems with snakes is camouflage.
People imagine that seeing a snake means seeing something obvious lying across a trail. Sometimes that's exactly what happens.
Other times, the snake is almost invisible.
A brown viper can look like a piece of dead vegetation. A green tree snake can disappear among leaves. A patterned snake can become almost impossible to distinguish from shadows on the forest floor.
This is why staring at the trail for five minutes doesn't make you completely safe.
Look ahead.
Look around.
Look beside rocks.
Look at fallen logs.
And particularly when climbing or scrambling, look where your hands are going.
A good rule for Panama is that anything you cannot see clearly should not receive your hand.
That applies to holes, cracks, vegetation, tree cavities and piles of leaves.
You don't need to be frightened of what is hiding there.
You simply don't need to put your hand into it.
Night Hiking Requires More Attention
The situation changes after sunset.
Tropical forests are spectacular at night, but nighttime is also when many snakes and other animals become active. A night walk can be one of the most memorable experiences in Panama because the forest becomes a completely different ecosystem after dark.
But bring a proper flashlight.
And use it.
Don't walk through vegetation while staring at your phone.
Don't assume that because a trail was empty during the afternoon it will remain empty at night.
Don't walk barefoot because you're only going a short distance.
And don't assume that drinking several beers has improved your ability to identify reptiles.
It probably hasn't.
The World Health Organization specifically recommends using a light when walking outside at night in areas where snakes may be active and recommends protective footwear as an important prevention measure.
What About Your Hostel or Cabin?
Travellers sometimes worry about snakes getting into accommodation.
In most normal tourist accommodation, this isn't something that should dominate your thoughts. But jungle properties are different from sealed urban hotels. If your accommodation is surrounded by forest, there can be more opportunities for wildlife to wander nearby.
That doesn't mean you should spend the night barricading the door.
Instead, use ordinary common sense.
Shake out shoes if they've been left outside.
Don't leave bags open on the ground in jungle areas.
Keep doors and screens closed where appropriate.
If you see a snake around your accommodation, don't attempt to remove it yourself.
Tell the staff.
People who live and work around the forest generally know much more about the local wildlife than a traveller who arrived yesterday.
What Happens If You Are Bitten?
This is where being frighteningly honest is useful.
A bite from a medically important venomous snake can be a serious medical emergency.
Depending on the species and venom, envenoming can cause intense pain and swelling, bleeding problems, tissue damage, neurological symptoms, kidney injury and potentially life threatening complications. Some neurotoxic venoms can cause paralysis that eventually affects breathing. Some cytotoxic and hemotoxic venoms can cause severe local tissue damage and dangerous bleeding abnormalities.
Not every bite results in severe envenoming, and some bites may contain little or no venom. But you cannot safely determine the seriousness of a suspected venomous snakebite simply by looking at it.
Do not wait for dramatic symptoms.
Get medical help immediately.
The first priority is getting away from the snake without being bitten again. Once you're safe, keep yourself as still and calm as possible and arrange urgent transportation to appropriate medical care.
If possible, have somebody else deal with transportation and communication while you remain still. Remove rings, watches and other restrictive items from the affected limb because swelling may develop.
Do not waste time trying to catch the snake.
If you can photograph it safely from a distance, that may potentially help identification, but your phone is worth infinitely less than your life.
What You Absolutely Should Not Do
There are still some remarkably persistent myths about snakebite.
Don't cut the wound.
Don't suck out the venom.
Don't try to burn the bite.
Don't apply a tourniquet unless specifically instructed by qualified medical professionals using an appropriate protocol.
Don't pour alcohol or chemicals onto it.
Don't try to "neutralize" venom with some homemade remedy.
Don't wait several hours to see whether it gets worse.
And don't spend your first precious minutes searching the internet for the correct colour pattern.
The World Health Organization recommends immobilizing the affected person and getting them to medical care as quickly as possible. It specifically warns against several traditional first aid practices that can cause additional injury or delay effective treatment.
Modern medical treatment, including antivenom when indicated, is what matters.
Don't Try To Kill The Snake
This is worth emphasizing because it can turn one emergency into two.
If somebody is bitten, the instinct may be to kill the snake so doctors can identify it.
Don't.
A snake that has already bitten someone can still bite the second person.
A photograph taken safely from a distance can be useful. A description can also help. But nobody needs to become Steve Irwin in the middle of a medical emergency.
Get the person to medical care.
Let professionals determine treatment.
So Should Travellers Be Afraid?
No.
Should they respect snakes?
Absolutely.
There is a huge difference between those two things.
Panama isn't a country where you need to abandon hiking because snakes exist. Millions of people live, work and travel in tropical environments every day without being bitten. The vast majority of travellers who hike in Panama will never have a serious snake encounter.
But the small risk is real enough that sensible precautions are worthwhile.
Wear appropriate footwear.
Use a flashlight after dark.
Watch where you step.
Watch where you put your hands.
Don't handle wildlife.
Stay on established trails when appropriate.
Give snakes plenty of room.
And if you see one, resist the irresistible human temptation to get closer for the perfect photograph.
The snake doesn't need your Instagram content.
The Strange Beauty Of Panama's Snakes
Once you understand the risks, something interesting happens.
Snakes become much less frightening and much more fascinating.
You start noticing how perfectly adapted they are to their environment. The pit vipers have heat sensing pits that help them detect warm prey. Tree dwelling species have bodies designed for climbing. Coral snakes possess specialized venom systems. Boas use extraordinary muscular strength rather than venom. Tiny species occupy ecological niches that most visitors never even realize exist.
They are not monsters.
They are highly specialized predators that have been evolving alongside the rest of the Panamanian ecosystem for millions of years.
And they are part of the reason Panama's forests function as incredibly complex ecosystems.
For a traveller, the goal isn't to eliminate every element of risk from the wilderness. If you did that, you would eventually eliminate the wilderness itself.
The goal is to understand the environment you're entering.
Panama's jungle contains monkeys swinging through trees, sloths sleeping above trails, colourful frogs hiding under leaves, tarantulas wandering after dark, enormous insects, crocodilians in some waterways and venomous snakes quietly occupying their own corners of the ecosystem.
That's what makes exploring it so memorable.
You are entering somewhere alive.
So hike the trails. Explore the waterfalls. Take the night walk. Look carefully into the trees. Listen to the forest. Watch where you put your feet.
And if you encounter a snake, stop, admire it from a respectful distance and let it continue on its way.
The best snake encounter in Panama is one where the snake disappears into the jungle and you walk away with a great story rather than a trip to the emergency room.