One of the nicest surprises about Panama City is how quickly you can escape the skyscrapers without actually leaving the city.
Head toward the Pacific entrance of the Panama Canal and you eventually arrive at the Amador Causeway, a long road and pedestrian route stretching out into the Pacific Ocean. On one side you have the spectacular skyline of Panama City. On the other, you have tropical islands, ocean, boats and the entrance to one of the world's most important shipping routes.
And sitting right at the beginning of it all is one of Panama City's most unusual buildings: the Biomuseo.
But the Biomuseo is only the beginning. The Causeway is the sort of place where you can spend an entire afternoon without really having a plan. Visit a museum, rent a bicycle, walk beside the ocean, watch enormous ships heading toward the Panama Canal, look for wildlife, stop for lunch, explore an island, have a drink and stay for sunset.
It is one of those rare places where Panama City's history, nature, engineering and modern lifestyle all collide in one relatively small area.
First Stop: The Biomuseo
The Biomuseo, or Museum of Biodiversity, is impossible to miss.
Designed by renowned architect Frank Gehry, the building looks almost like a colourful collection of enormous sheets of metal that have been thrown into the air and somehow landed perfectly on top of each other.
It is bold, strange and completely different from most of the architecture around Panama City.
And the building is actually a pretty good introduction to what is inside.
The museum tells the story of how Panama became one of the most biologically important places on Earth.
Panama may look like a relatively small country on a map, but its geographical position has had an enormous impact on the planet.
Millions of years ago, North and South America were separated by water. Eventually, geological forces pushed the land upward and Panama formed the connection between the two continents.
That tiny strip of land became a biological highway.
Animals began moving between North and South America. Plants spread. New ecosystems developed. Species that had previously been separated began interacting with one another.
And then humans arrived and eventually turned Panama into one of the world's most important transportation corridors.
The Biomuseo explains this extraordinary story in a way that makes you look at the rest of Panama differently.
Suddenly, the monkeys in the trees, the birds flying overhead and the strange animals you encounter on a jungle hike aren't just random tropical wildlife.
They are part of a much bigger story.
Panama Changed Two Oceans
One of the fascinating things the museum explains is what happened when Panama rose out of the sea.
The formation of the isthmus separated the Pacific Ocean from the Caribbean Sea and dramatically changed marine ecosystems on both sides.
The Pacific and Caribbean sides of Panama look quite different today, and the differences aren't simply because one side gets more rain or has different beaches.
The geological history of Panama helped create those differences.
The museum's exhibitions make this complicated geological story surprisingly easy to understand.
There are immersive displays, huge visual installations, fossils, animals, geological information and exhibits explaining how the formation of Panama affected life throughout the Americas.
One of the highlights is Panamarama, an immersive experience that surrounds visitors with images and sounds illustrating Panama's incredible natural environment.
It is especially worthwhile before travelling around the country because it gives you some context for everything you're about to see.
Don't Rush Through the Biomuseo
This isn't necessarily a museum you want to race through in thirty minutes just so you can say you've been there.
Give yourself some time.
The exhibitions cover geology, wildlife, oceans, climate, human history and the enormous ecological importance of the Panamanian isthmus.
There are also outdoor areas where you can continue learning about Panama's biodiversity.
For travellers who aren't normally big museum people, the Biomuseo is still worth considering because it doesn't feel like you're walking through room after room of dusty historical objects.
It is visual, colourful and interactive.
And after spending time inside, you're ready to go outside and see the real thing.
Then Head Out Onto the Amador Causeway
The Amador Causeway extends several kilometres into the Pacific and connects the mainland with a series of islands.
The Causeway itself was constructed using material excavated during the construction of the Panama Canal, which gives the place another fascinating connection to Panama's history.
Today, however, it feels much less like an engineering project and much more like one of Panama City's outdoor playgrounds.
People come here to walk, run, cycle, skate, fish, eat, exercise, meet friends and enjoy the ocean.
It is particularly popular in the late afternoon when the worst of the tropical heat starts to disappear.
And this is where the Causeway becomes especially enjoyable for travellers.
You don't need an itinerary.
Just start walking.
Rent a Bicycle
Cycling is probably one of the best ways to experience the Causeway.
The route is long enough that walking the entire thing can take some time, while a bicycle allows you to explore much more of it without turning the day into an endurance competition.
You can stop whenever you want.
Take a photograph.
Watch a ship.
Grab something to eat.
Explore one of the islands.
Continue cycling.
Stop again.
There are excellent views in both directions, with the Panama City skyline becoming increasingly impressive as you travel farther away from the mainland.
Looking back toward the city gives you an entirely different perspective from the one you get walking through downtown.
The skyscrapers seem to rise directly out of the tropical landscape.
And when you look the other way, you're staring toward the Pacific.
Watch Ships Enter the Panama Canal
One of the most entertaining free activities on the Causeway is simply watching ships.
The Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal is nearby, and enormous cargo ships and other vessels regularly pass through the area.
You don't have to be a maritime enthusiast to find this fascinating.
These aren't little fishing boats.
Some of the ships are enormous.
Watching one of them slowly make its way toward the Canal gives you a much better appreciation for what the Panama Canal actually means than looking at a photograph ever will.
You can stand there with a cold drink and watch a ship that has travelled thousands of kilometres approaching the entrance to the Canal while the Panama City skyline rises behind you.
It is one of those very Panamanian experiences.
Keep an Eye Out for Wildlife
It is easy to forget that you're still in a tropical environment.
The Causeway may have restaurants, roads, bicycles and modern buildings, but there is plenty of nature around the islands.
Birds are particularly easy to spot, and the surrounding vegetation provides habitat for a surprising amount of wildlife.
You may see iguanas, tropical birds, butterflies and other creatures if you slow down and actually look.
The area around the Causeway is also connected to Panama's marine environment, so you may notice plenty of activity around the water.
This is not a substitute for going deep into the rainforest, of course.
But that's part of what makes it interesting.
You can be standing beside a modern city skyline and still have tropical wildlife wandering around nearby.
Visit Punta Culebra
If you are particularly interested in nature, make time for Punta Culebra Nature Center.
The centre is associated with the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute and provides an opportunity to learn about Panama's tropical ecosystems, marine environments and wildlife.
There are trails and educational exhibits, and it is a good place to get a closer look at some of the natural environments found around the Canal Zone.
For travellers who don't have time to travel deep into the country, Punta Culebra offers a little taste of Panama's biodiversity without requiring an expedition.
And there is something amusingly Panamanian about the setting.
You can be looking at tropical forest one minute and watching a giant ship carrying containers across the Canal area the next.
Nature and international commerce are basically neighbours here.
Continue Toward Flamenco Island
Keep going along the Causeway and eventually you reach Flamenco Island.
The atmosphere changes as you get farther out.
There are marinas, restaurants, boats, ocean views and plenty of places to sit down and enjoy the surroundings.
This is also where you get some of the best views back toward Panama City's skyline.
Bring your camera.
The combination of tropical water, boats and skyscrapers makes for some excellent photographs.
And yes, you'll probably encounter the giant Panama sign.
Take the photograph.
Everyone does.
There are certain tourist photographs that you don't need to pretend you're too sophisticated for.
The Panama sign is one of them.
Have Lunch Beside the Water
The Causeway is also a good place to stop for lunch.
There are restaurants ranging from casual Panamanian food and seafood to international cuisine.
This is a particularly good place to enjoy seafood because you're literally sitting beside the Pacific.
You don't necessarily need to make the meal a formal restaurant experience either.
The whole point of the Causeway is to slow down.
Have lunch.
Watch the boats.
Talk to the people you're travelling with.
Enjoy the breeze.
Then go for another walk.
The Causeway Has a Surprisingly Interesting Military History
One of the less obvious aspects of Amador is its military history.
The islands and Causeway were once part of the defensive system protecting the Panama Canal.
During the American period of Canal Zone administration, military installations and coastal defences were established around the area.
Some of that history remains visible today.
There are also historical displays along the Causeway explaining how the area has changed over time.
This gives the place another layer that you might completely miss if you simply come here for a bicycle ride.
The Causeway has been a military zone, part of the Panama Canal story, a strategic transportation area and now one of Panama City's favourite recreational spaces.
That's quite a transformation.
Go to the Causeway for Sunset
If you have a choice about when to visit, late afternoon is an excellent option.
The heat becomes more manageable, the light becomes softer and the city skyline starts to look dramatically different.
As the sun drops, the buildings of Panama City begin to glow.
The Pacific becomes darker.
The boats turn into silhouettes.
And the Causeway starts to feel much more relaxed.
This is when you understand why locals like coming here.
It's not necessarily about seeing one particular attraction.
It's about being outside.
You can sit beside the water, have a drink, watch the skyline and let the city carry on somewhere behind you.
You Can Make It as Active or Lazy as You Want
That's perhaps the best thing about Amador.
You can make it a serious sightseeing day.
Biomuseo.
Punta Culebra.
Cycling.
Walking.
Historical sites.
Wildlife.
Restaurants.
Marinas.
You can also make it almost ridiculously lazy.
Rent a bicycle.
Cycle for twenty minutes.
Find a shady spot.
Have lunch.
Watch ships.
Have another drink.
Wait for sunset.
Both approaches work.
How Long Should You Spend?
If you're short on time, you can see the highlights in a few hours.
But if you're travelling around Panama and have a free afternoon, I'd give yourself half a day or more.
Start with the Biomuseo in the earlier part of the afternoon.
Then explore the Causeway by bicycle or on foot.
Continue toward Punta Culebra and Flamenco Island.
Stop for food.
Watch the ships.
And finish with sunset overlooking Panama City.
You don't have to rush between attractions.
In fact, rushing somewhat defeats the purpose.
The Perfect Combination of Panama City and Panama's Wild Side
The Biomuseo and Amador Causeway are particularly good for first time visitors because they demonstrate something that makes Panama so interesting.
Panama is not just a tropical beach destination.
It isn't just rainforest.
It isn't just the Panama Canal.
And it certainly isn't just Panama City.
It is all of these things squeezed together in a remarkably small country.
At the Biomuseo, you learn how geological forces created a biological bridge between continents.
On the Causeway, you see the Pacific and the modern Panama City skyline.
Nearby, enormous ships are using the Canal to connect two oceans.
In the trees, tropical birds and wildlife are carrying on with their lives.
And out beyond the islands is the enormous Pacific Ocean.
That is Panama in a nutshell.
Geology, wildlife, rainforest, ocean, engineering, history and modern city life all sitting practically on top of one another.
So if you're staying in Panama City and wondering what to do after you've seen Casco Viejo and the Panama Canal, don't overlook the road that heads out into the ocean.
Go see the Biomuseo.
Rent a bike.
Explore the islands.
Watch a ship.
Eat something beside the water.
Look back at the skyline.
And stay until sunset.
The Amador Causeway isn't the most famous attraction in Panama City, but it might be one of the easiest places to spend an afternoon and think, "Yep, this is definitely Panama."